Itchy, flaky scalp? Head and Shoulders probably isn't the solution
If you’re scared to wear black and your head hurts, let’s sort out your haircare routine
As I’ve said countless times, a majority of my inspiration for my posts here comes from stuff that people1 ask me. This week, we had a bizarre synergy where I’d finally decided to write this one, which has been rattling in my head for a while, then my beloved friend Maxie2 asked me this exact question. #kismet.
Why I - regrettably - know so much about this
If you’ve been here a while345, then you may remember that I am plagued with eczema and scalp psoriasis.
I’ve had both since I was about 12, so you can benefit from a decades-long journey of trial and error. Fortunately, the haircare industry has come a long way since the days of Selsun-or-bust6.
First: Do some rudimentary diagnosis
Dandruff or psoriasis?
I’m not going to dwell on this at length, as the treatment of these won’t vary wildly, but they look different - dandruff tends to be accompanied by greasy hair and widespread small flakes throughout the hair. Psoriasis tends to concentrate along the hairline (front and back) and is characterised by larger, silvery flakes that will cling stubbornly to the roots of your hair.
Scalp type?
Like the rest of your skin, this comes in dry, balanced or oily. It’s also possible to be dry at the hairline and oily elsewhere. For funsies.
Hair type
This defies a pithy roundup, but hopefully by now you already know the texture, density and porosity of your hair, as well as any underlying concerns/conditions that you’re treating7. This is important, because your routine needs to balance your scalp management with your actual haircare.
Environmental factors
Scalp flaking can worsen if you’re exposed to a lot of aircon and/or central heating. A humidifier next to your bed and one on your desk8 may be beneficial9.
Also, psoriasis can reduce with sun exposure. So if you’ve seen it clear up on holiday and then it comes back, this is likely why.
NB - Once in a while, it’s just sunburn
If you sunburn your scalp10, this will cause scalp flaking - the same way skin can peel anywhere on your body post-sunburn.
Don’t confuse this with dandruff or psoriasis. You’re just having a temporary reaction to over-doing sun exposure.
If so, your skin has already had a hard time of things, please don’t apply salicylic products to your scalp to shift this, it’s going to heal naturally and dispapear within a few days.
BUY A CAP FOR FUTURE SUNBATHING. WEAR IT.
What might be going wrong with your current routine
Many shampoos marketed as ‘anti-dandruff’ treat flaking in isolation rather than as a symptom with multiple possible causes.
Dry scalp, dandruff, psoriasis, and sunburn can all produce flakes, but they respond differently to treatment. Medicated shampoos are formulated to reduce visible shedding - often through aggressive cleansing or harsh antifungal actives - without addressing skin barrier damage, inflammation, environmental factors or hair type.
Used indiscriminately, and without consideration for your specific scalp and hair needs, they can worsen irritation, compromise the scalp’s tolerance and create a cycle of temporary improvement followed by relapse.
I am yet to meet a medicated/coal tar shampoo that didn’t smell bad and turn my hair to straw. So I’m not covering them here.
OK, what products should you actually use?
Pre-cleanse
If you have a bad flare-up or you’ve found it impossible to shift flakes, you’ll probably benefit from an acid-based11 pre-shampoo treatment12.
Bumble and Bumble made the best one I’ve ever used13, but then discontinued it, like absolute bastards14.
I’ve toyed with a few others, but none are as satisfying. I levelled out at The Inkey’s glycolic acid scalp scrub. It is very cheap (by volume)15, it works, and a bottle lasts months. My skin tolerates glycolic acid well - not everyone’s does. Patch test this first before applying it all over. A little stinging is normal; feeling as though you’re about to burst into flames is not.
Shampoo
Unless you’re blessed with just flakes and have otherwise entirely unproblematic hair, it’s probably wise to double shampoo1617, using a scalp clarifying shampoo first, then a cosmetic shampoo that’s specific to your hair type.
NB if you’ve used a pre-cleanse scalp treatment, just single shampoo with the cosmetic shampoo. Scalp treatment + clarifying shampoo, is almost certainly overkill.
I currently use the Q+A salicylic acid clarifying shampoo. It’s cheap, works and is easily available in much of the world18.
Then my second wash is with whichever cosmetic shampoo I have in rotation (currently this).
My current conditioner is this, although I typically use K18 every other wash.
During the first wash, make sure you really give your scalp a thorough going over with your fingertips, massaging the shampoo really well into whichever part of your hairline is prone to flakes. This is really important to loosen and lift all of the dead skin and send it hurtling down your drain and to its inevitable fatberg destiny.
Final note on shampoo
Kerastase make the most luxurious scalp cleansing shampoo on the market. It is a joy to use, but I don’t think it’s worth the price tag when you can get something as effective at scalp-clearing for 1/3 of the price19.
Post-wash
For the psoriasis people - occasionally, for no reason other than to fuck up your entire day, you may find that there’s suddenly a fresh outbreak of flakes around your hairline after your hair has dried.
If this happens every wash, it’s time to reconsider your products, but if you have a one-off flare and this is catastrophic to your plans, you can lift the flakes from your scalp with a fine-toothed comb and blast them up the hair shaft with a hairdryer20.
Skincare21 - If you have a dry scalp, always make sure that you’re taking your facial moisturiser22 all the way to your hairline. This, admittedly, puts you on a knife-edge of appropriately hydrating your scalp vs making your hair greasy, but I’m backing you to succeed in this.
Scalp-oiling/massage
Advice varies on scalp oiling - some advocate for pre-wash, some advocate for post-wash on wet hair only, others for nightly on dry hair only.
If your hair tends greasy or is fine, scalp oiling is a quick way to limpness. You’ll need to weigh up the benefits.
If you have coarse, dry hair and a flaky scalp, scalp oiling is YOUR FRIEND.
Rosemary oil
There are a raft of hair oils on the market, many making outlandish claims. The debate rages on this one. I’m not getting involved. But I broadly trust Lab Muffin Beauty, and this is what she had to say23:
My hair oil recommendation24
I’ve used the Mielle, I’ve used the JVN. If you’ve heard of it, I’ve either used it or dismissed it.
I don’t oil my scalp any longer, because - it turns out - I do not actually need extra oil on my scalp, but this was my favourite.
1,200 years of use by the Japanese? Sign me the fuck up. This is available basically everywhere, is great value and I’ll be amazed if the bottle doesn’t last you a year.
Peppermint oil (and haircare products containing peppermint)
Word to the wise: if you have a sensitive scalp, peppermint is highly likely to aggravate it and make your flakes worse.
Fingers or gizmos?
AKA Do you need something that looks like this in your life?
These can be used both to apply and work in your shampoo and to massage your scalp (as can your fingers). It’s really up to you which sensation you prefer and if you think these work better than your hands.
If having one of these will make you more inclined to spend time getting up close and personal with your scalp, I’d recommend you buy one.
There are dozens of different types of these, pick one that you like. This one is currently a bestseller.
No, you don’t need an electric one
Silicone is easiest to clean
It shouldn’t cost you more than £$5-10
Forever? Forever ever? Forever ever?
For some of you, if you find the right combo, you won’t need to worry about this again. Once you stop treating flakes in isolation and tailor your routine to the underlying cause, most scalp issues become far more manageable.
If your flakes keep coming back, check whether you’re over-cleansing or exfoliating, and whether your routine is compatible with your hair type and environment. It may be that you need gentler products, more frequently, to keep on top of your scalp’s cell renewal.
Psoriasis will almost certainly require ongoing management. If your skin tolerates it, use a scalp cleanse treatment25 during significant flares and revert to gentler products once things are under control. As with your skincare routine, consistent use of less aggressive products tend to give better, more sustainable results than concentrated efforts during a crisis.
Maxie - I hope this sorts you out 😉😘26.
Until the next time! x
This is how I’m choosing to categorise My Very Dear Friends.
I appreciate you! 🥰
New people, I appreciate you also! 🥰
Audience management is hard 🫤
Jesus Christ, the SMELL 🤢
If not, then I have to ask how the fuck you’re buying the right shampoo for you?
If you have a desk. You get the idea.
If the humidifier is going to play havoc with your hair, you may have a tough choice ahead. But I’m going to give you other options that may sort you out instead. Don’t worry x
Way more likely if you have thin hair
Call this pre-poo and I will remove you as a subscriber myself. NO.
It was literally the only product of theirs that I’ve ever rated. Don’t talk to me about their salt spray - this one is The Way.
Also, you should never pay full price for The Inkey. It is ALWAYS on offer somewhere.
If you wash your hair daily, start out by using a single shampoo, but alternate between a scalp shampoo and a cosmetic shampoo each day and see how you get on.
Yes, this is last week’s post. See the 5D chess I have to play to get you the information that you need as digestibly as possible? And most of you somehow can’t even find the Like button. *sighs forever*
If you’re in the UK, it’s always in Holland and Barrett’s BOGOF and 3 for 2 promos. It’s a decent range across the board.
You should never, ever pay full price for Kerastase either.
This is obviously much easier if you have straight hair. Sorry Maxie 😘
Also predominantly for the psoriasis people - HELLO MY PEOPLE!
And exfoliant, if you’re using one
TLDW: it’s not necessarily bad for you, but it won’t stimulate hair growth
No gatekeeper, I.
e.g. the Inkey one mentioned above
If nothing else, I think this is the most footnotes of any post to date. See how I made this a footnote? META, BABY.
Really smart breakdown of how context matters here. The point about treating flakes in isolation instead of addressing underlying causes is where most routines go sideways. I'd been doubling up on acid treatments during bad flares adn it just kept making things worse. Switching to gentler daily maintenance made a huge diference. The double cleanse approach with separate scalp + hair products is spot on tho.